Schiaparelli SS'23 Product and Runway Descriptions
PRODUCTS
Visage Relaxed Shirt
This shirt is made of two-toned tussah, with one side fashioned in periwinkle blue and the other in creamy ecru. Inspired by the illustrations of Jean Cocteau, the outlined profile of a face divides the two shades, detailed along the edges with square-shaped embroidery. The fit is relaxed and oversized, draping loosely from the dropped shoulders, its hem slightly tapered-in. It features classic shirting details such as a pointed collar, with Schiaparelli bijoux buttons fastening the front and cuffs.
This piece is a tribute to the optical illusions of Jean Cocteau. In 1937, the renowned Maison Lesage embroidered a linen evening jacket with golden thread to illustrate an iconic creation of the artist — the profile of a face with radiant golden braids cascading down one sleeve.
Bustier Top
This bustier top is made of deep black wool and Calais lace trim. It is lingerie-inspired, with a snug fit that is accentuated by lined underwire and boning. Its U-shaped neckline calls to mind the silhouettes of Paloma Picasso, zipping down the front with a Keyhole puller in cookie-dough plated gold. Two garter straps are suspended from the waist for a more sultry effect.
The neckline of this piece was inspired by the daring silhouettes of eternal muse Paloma Picasso. Schiaparelli’s many collaborative relationships with artists and designers alike are storied and prodigious. These creations have been well documented, notably by the great Pablo Picasso in his painting ‘Portrait De Nusch’, which featured Nusch Eluard wearing jewelry and a hat from the Maisons’ Winter 1937 Haute-Couture collection, as well as lapel pins designed by Jean Schlumberger.
RUNWAY LOOKS
Look 10
An ecru smocked mini dress with defined breasts is scandalously pierced at the nipples and belly-button. Its contouring silhouette is suspended from golden chain-link straps with a bone t-bar fastener.
It is punctuated by butterfly shaped sunglasses with trompe l’oeil eyebrows and perforated vision, cast of textured golden brass. Golden accessories complete the look, composed of spherical earrings of bursting pearls and suspended crystalized rings, and anatomical cuff bracelets displaying half of a face with stone piercings and a pierced ear. The shoes are beige golden-toe espadrilles with a surrealist platform heel.
Look 12
A fitted bustier in plush black velvet is stitched with directional seams, ballooning at the hem in a buoyant peplum, a charmed zipper closing the back. It cinches above a black wool pencil skirt with golden nipple buttons down the back.
Masking the face are butterfly shaped sunglasses with trompe l’oeil eyebrows and perforated vision, cast of textured golden brass. Framing them are spherical earrings of bursting pearls and suspended crystalized rings and a matching ring. The golden-toe espadrilles in black are designed with a surrealist platform heel.
Look 14
A double-breasted coat with an hourglass shape cloaks the figure in black suede, careening below the waist into sweeping flares. The neckline is broadened by an exaggerated shawl collar, golden charm buttons bind the front.
A golden hammered chain-link ring and earrings accent the look, as do golden-toe espadrilles in black with a surrealist platform heel.
