COURRÈGES FW’24
MEN’S AND WOMEN’S PRE-COLLECTION
Clean, cut, confidential, the Courrèges FW’24 Men’s and Women’s pre-collection seizes mementos of movement within the construction of an essential wardrobe. In the exactitude of tailored shapes and impeccable fabrics, Nicolas di Felice dispels sensual derivations, formal opportunities for the body to explore its exposure.
A natural evolution of his past collections, the season is embodied by a motley cast of characters that provide insight into his eclectic visual repertoire. From the perverse bourgeoise, or the wayward sailor, to the leather boys and girls and their post-punk counterparts, each archetype mirrors the duality of a vision that balances precision and subversion. Referencing both the House’s daring heritage and di Felice’s personal library of underground fetishes, this collection is a study on public expressions of private desires.
The story opens on the prim outlines of a Prince-of-Wales suit coat and pencil skirt that zip - an unzip- to the body’s will. Open slit sleeves renew key details of FW’23, while a jetted pocket injected under the navel can be seen throughout, serving a risqué take on practicality. The season’s styles follow an organically unisexe approach, with convertible jersey tanks and rebooted vinyl and crepe classics meshing with contemporary volumes and an assorted offering of the Holy Bag. First seen on the SS’24, this new House classic is now available in micro and maxi sizes and an extended range of colours and fabrications.
As the narrative unfolds, a series of drop-front pants evoke Querelle-like sailors - an intertwined fantasy of boys in uniform cruising the night. Beyond pristine first impressions, the season’s silhouettes manifest a desire to touch, to run wild. Polo shirts and dresses are worn open and draped over the shoulders to signal loose intentions. Deep plunging necklines and slashed bodices open the heart to a fleeting encounter, while a fur-lined wind-breaker heightens the sensorial quality of the collection.
From a frozen gesture, an awkward fold, the shapes ritualise the process of disrobing, of exposing oneself to the world.
Knitted Balaclavas borrowed from 1960’s House archives and corn-based latex that sheaths the body in glistening light, allude to a hush-hush history of sexual liberation. In the words of Genet, ’Violence is a calm that disturbs you.’ Slashed horizontally, a longing gaze emerges from its metallic frame, hunting for more. ‘Encore !’ it beckons, tearing us from the comfort of our intimacy, to welcome the warmth of each other’s embrace.
